Black people—the innovators, the originators, and most importantly, the trendsetters.
There’s no denying that the American fashion industry has found inspiration within Black culture. Whether it’s bursting down runways, in stores, or online—everywhere you look—style influenced by African-Americans is embedded in today’s fashion for people of all colors, races, and status.
But this, of course, is not something that started just yesterday. Our culture—our music, dances, and even our struggles— has shaped the style, trends, and movements throughout fashion history in America since the beginning. Influences from the Civil Rights Era, the birth of hip-hop, and the ghetto lifestyle are embedded in Black fashion—and this, subsequently, has impacted the cultural spectrum of this country.
For the black community, clothes have always been a form of expression, a way to break free from societal pressures and make a statement while doing so.
During the 1960s and 70s, the Black Panther Party led a revolutionary social movement that fought for civil rights and equality, and although they had a big impact in the political sphere, they also impacted the fashion of the era by becoming the counterculture idealists of their time.
The Panthers were all about shifting Eurocentric standards of beauty and embracing that ‘black was beautiful,’ which gave birth to their iconic uniform: black berets, black leather jackets, and black pants. So while delivering the message that black people moved in solidarity and as a unified block, they did so with a style that impacted generations to come.
And in today’s generation, where ‘#BlackLivesMatter’ is always on the trending page of every social media platform and African-Americans are still fighting against racial injustice, it’s important to revisit the genesis of the fashion that we revere today. Today’s second-wave activism has given birth to blossoming afro-centric fashion, as Black people continue to reconnect with our roots and bring liberation.
Moving on to the 80s, the hip-hop community singlehandedly birthed the casual streetwear that we—from High School teenagers to internationally-acclaimed fashion designers like Donatella Versace —are all obsessed with. Today, streetwear dominates the fashion industry. Track pants and oversized hoodies have become the new suit and tie, and slender silhouettes are transitioning into a more relaxed and slouchy one. Not to mention sneakerhead culture, which holds hip-hop roots, has grown widely popular throughout the years, with shoe brands like Nike and Adidas becoming the latest rage.
Kangol bucket hats, gold name-plate necklaces, and Adidas tracksuits were a hot commodity back then and largely due to big names in Hip-Hop like Run DMC, LL Cool J, and Funk Master Flash. These OG rappers were trendsetters and found a way to merge music and fashion to create something that would last a lifetime.
The cool kids on the block would wear the famous three-striped tracksuit over their Adidas Superstars or Puma Suede sneakers accentuated with fat laces for a little extra flare. And in the wintertime, the rap community could be seen wearing a leather goose down bomber with Cazal sunglasses.
One designer that pioneered today’s streetwear was Dapper Dan, a Black icon and Harlem tailor. Dapper Dan discovered an innovative way to merge luxury with streetwear by taking fabrics from rich brands like Gucci, Louis Vuitton, and Fendi and repurposing them into casual silhouettes like tracksuits and bomber jackets.
“Black pioneers in fashion like Dapper Dan and Virgil Abloh have made a big impact on streetwear and hypebeast fashion. Dapper Dan was able to deconstruct high-end designer and create something new by turning it into streetwear, and Virgil is also finding a great of merging the two and finding the intersection between the two styles,” said Winsley Bernard, a senior at Miami Lakes Educational Center (MLEC).
But one doesn’t need to look at famous designers to understand the impact of Black identity in America. The Black community is a collective, and as such, its cultural history flows as one. Black people from the hood are some of the biggest innovators, and although their contributions might go unnoticed, they have played a big role in mainstream fashion.
Black people from the ghetto were rocking oversized hoops, printed durags, and shiny gold chains before they even became the trends they are today. Nameplate jewelry and gold chains got their roots from 70’s New York style and hip hop culture. A big chain spelling out your name in an abstract way or in a chain link with a dollar sign pendant was an everyday style—one that today almost everyone is following.
Black girls have also been known to rock statement earrings. The more embellishments, the better. Door Knockers, bamboo, and gold finish have become popularized and ‘hood staples’—and of course, one cannot forget the classic grills. These fashion accessories are worn over your teeth and come in sparkling gold or diamond. This fashion trend is over the top and has even manifested into the most recent trend known as “tooth gems.” These fashion trends are extravagant and in your face—but hey, that’s what black fashion is all about.
“Black girls are trendsetters. We are the ones who started slicking our baby hair down and wearing the gigantic hoop earrings. The flashy jewelry is just a part of the culture, along with the big hoops and Jordans. Other people might hop on the wave, but Black people were the ones who started it,” said Tia Gaines, a sophomore at MLEC.
You can’t talk about black history without giving due respect to the innovators who helped to mold it into what it is today. Black people have impacted the world in many ways, fashion being one of them. For many generations, Black culture has shaped hair, fashion, and music trends. It continues to serve as a prime inspiration for popular culture globally to this day.
For African-Americans, fashion was used to express themselves freely—something that was historically prohibited to them. By being innovative and daring to be different, so many fashion trends that we love today were able to be created.
So, here’s to the people who started it all.
